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Kauehi The Tuamotus islands, also known as the 'Dangerous Archipelago', are so low-lying that they make the Maldives look like Manhattan. And in the days before GPS navigation, many ships drove their vessels straight into the unseen reefs with inevitable consequences....

Hakahau Conditions inside Taiohae can be deceptive: Inside the harbour, we had blue sky, light winds, and a gentle swell rolling over the bay. Outside the protection of Taiohae, however, the conditions were the polar opposite: average winds of 24 knots, sea state a...

Baie Hooumi A few days before the JaJapami's arrived, and the day after Krabat and A Capella had left for the Tuamotus, we headed out to Baie Hooumi - one of the three bays collectively known as Controller Bay, situated to the east of the island. Luckily, just before...

Rolling Along To Nuku Hiva After around 15 hours of relaxed sailing under headsail only, we sailed into the vast Baie de Taiohae on the south of Nuku Hiva. It was a night of calm seas, bright moon, and an amazingly clear sky peppered with stars. Either the atmosphere...

The Myths and Legends of Atuona Bay Following grim tales of a crowded anchorage and an intolerable swell, we were not looking forward to coming to Hiva Oa. And, as we rounded the corner leading into Atuona Bay, we expected to see hundreds of tightly-packed boats...

Fatu Hiva After an 18-day Pacific Crossing, and a couple of hours loitering until it was light enough to see properly, we arrived at the Bay of Virgins at Fatu Hiva to be greeted by stunning scenery and some familiar faces. And what a place to make landfall. Not only...

Bound for French Polynesia No, the title isn't another reference to the biological attributes of Galapagos animals. We are about to leave Santa Cruz for French Polynesia. It's our longest voyage yet, at 3000 miles. And we expect to arrive in the Marquesas in...

Tortoise Porn I know that this post immediately follows the one on boobies. But nothing brings out the inner child better than the sight of giant tortoises having sex. These incongruously large creatures banging away like reptilian porn stars is something I never...

San Cristobal Interpretation Centre After the hassle of checking in, it was good to kick back and act like tourists. Actually, after eight days on the boat, it was good to walk again. So, we decided to take a stroll to the San Cristobal Interpretation Centre which is...

Las Perlas Las Perlas - the Pearl Islands -  are the Pacific-side answer to San Blas. And although it doesn't have the same clear (and warm) water, it's worth coming here for a different reason: The area to the south is full of sea birds - especially pelicans and...