Broken in Khelong Bay

After almost 8 years of accident-free sailing deposited in the bank of good fortune, we were due for a fall, but this was a big one. We weren’t even sailing. Parked up at anchor near Chana Beach, Maria stepped outside to take a photograph of our friend’s boat leaving the anchorage but stumbled coming back into the cockpit, falling heavily on her wrist and changing its normal shape into something resembling an Emu’s beak. Instinctively, she straightened it back in position, but it was clear that she had broken it.

Fortunately, we had splints on board to help with support. Unfortunately, as a result of years of complacency, the bag containing all the stuff needed for emergencies such as this had become buried under layers of bags, chairs, mosquito nets and other paraphernalia. It took a couple of minutes of frantic ‘reorganisation’ to find it. Lesson learned.

The priority was to get the rings off her fingers before the swelling became too much. Using a technique I saw or read about somewhere, I used a thin cable tie slid between her fingers and the rings to spin them off. It’s a credit to Maria that she had the presence of mind to think about getting the rings off as a priority. After the rings were off, painkillers administered, and the wrist splinted, we started the process of getting off the boat and onto the shore so that we could get to a hospital.

Another challenge was the absence of a dock to park the dinghy. The place we were at had only a beach, so we (I) had to pull the dinghy up the beach and tie it to a tree. With that mission accomplished, we walked up the hill to the main street and ordered a grab from outside the 7/11 – an ironically suitable place to wait. The staff at this branch of 7/11 have the cheerfulness of a wet weekend on the Yorkshire Moors.

Waiting at the 7/11

The same wasn’t true of the Grab driver who picked us up. He and I assume his wife, who was travelling with him in the passenger seat, were delightful. Forty minutes after pickup, we arrived at the Bangkok Hospital, Phuket, where they quickly admitted, processed, doctored, X-rayed, manipulated, temporarily plastered, and then released her with instructions to keep her hand up.

Waiting

Manipulated

Getting back to the boat was the reverse of getting to shore, but with the added challenge that the water had left the beach. Now, at low water, we were presented with a large array of rocks and ropes to negotiate before being able to float the boat. Not ideal, but we got the job done.

Chalong

Before the next appointment, we made our way over to Chalong Bay so that we could access the dinghy dock on the main jetty and get to shops that don’t make you feel depressed.

Chalong is a busy place. Geared up for tourists, the shops in town are the usual collection of bars, restaurants, souvenir shops and tour operators. But slightly out of town is a supermarket with a distinctly Western slant. Prices are at a premium, but being able to read the labels on the produce is probably worth it. And, although not as straightforward as the delivery apps in the UK, it is possible to get food delivered here via Grab. The only challenge is that you need to be close to where you want to receive it to be able to order it. It’s not a problem for landlubbers, but it’s a bit of an inconvenience when the nearest bit of land is almost a mile away.

And herein lies a lesson in persistence. My plan was to get in the dinghy and, when close enough to the dock, order pizza to be delivered to the end of the jetty. Then, I would only have a wait of 20 minutes or so before floating back to Jamala with dinner in hand or, in this case, in boxes.

Things didn’t quite go according to plan. First of all, I ran aground on a bank lying directly in line from Jamala to the dock, requiring a long diversion. Second, my phone decided to magnify the screen so that it was useless, and it took me 10 minutes to fix it, by which time I was almost back where I started. Lastly, near the dock, I caught a fishing line around the propeller. That took at least 20 minutes to free. Fortunately (as if there is anything fortunate about this episode), the lead weight on the line kept me anchored, so I didn’t drift back to Jamala again. But, what was to be a 1-hour trip ended up being 2. The pizzas were good, though.

Maria didn’t feel up to getting off the boat, so we had to change things up a bit, with me rediscovering cooking – and even a bit of baking (thanks to Green’s packet mix).

Mother’s Day Buns

Off the boat after a long time

Old Phuket Town

Maria’s check-up was scheduled for 1000, so rather than risk not being able to make it in time due to more navigational errors, fishing lines, mechanical problems or weather, I booked us into the Travelodge the night before. Some may regard this as the choice of a tight-arse, but I will counter that by stating that the hotel has its own swimming pool and fitness centre, has an excellent coffee shop next door and is within easy walking distance of a shopping mall with more restaurants than you could shake a fork at.

After looking at the new x-ray of Maria’s wrist, the doctor announced that he was pleased but that the swelling was too much for a more permanent cast. So she was sent away with more drugs to reduce the swelling and instructions to call when her hand is less bloaty looking.

To celebrate this half-good news, we made our way to Phuket Old Town for lunch and joined the throngs of Insta tourists wandering around taking photos.

No way that is coming on the boat

Murial

Instas

Temple

Temple

Another view of the temple

And Temple

Entry Gate

Before heading back to Chalong, we had lunch at a lovely tiny cafe in an arcade where they sold freshly made spring rolls and gyozas. We spent time chatting with a local policeman who patrols the area on his bike – he was probably chosen for his language skills and friendly demeanour. There’s no way he’d get a job at the Khelong Bay 7/11. He even shared his lunch with us.

Lunchtime

Squid game doll

And that was that for our trip to Old Phuket. The wind was changing, and it was time to head west.