Chagos – Île Boddam

Île Boddam

Boddam was supposed to be our home for the month, but with the trade winds firmly set in their ways,  anchoring there would have put us on a dangerous lee shore. Not only would we have had the tension of that, we would have exited Chagos looking like we had contracted the plague. The island was thick with mosquitoes and would have had just two humans to feed on – us.

Because it’s a bit of a schlep from Ile Fouquet, we went in company with the Allorians, who arrived ready to tackle the vegetation with some menace.

The trail into the island is well-worn and well-marked, thanks to some past traveller with a roll of orange plastic tape. Consequently, we were able to amble around the island without having to call into use the machete-wielding Dianna to hack through the jungle.

There are signs of the old life here everywhere, from the old equipment left behind – the machinery to haul boats and cargo, the old well pipelines, and the buildings, to the people left behind in the cemetery. It is both fascinating and a little sad.

Île Boddam Cemetery

“HOMAGE A NU BON FRÈRES, SŒURS CHAGOSSIEN, KI FINE ENTERRE ICI. SOUVENIR HISTORIQUE. FÉVRIER 2022”

“Homage to our good Chagossian brothers and sisters who are buried here. Historic remembrance. February 2022.”

In February 2022, the first (as far as I can see) independent Chagossian heritage visit, organised by Olivier Bancoult, brought a delegation of Chagossian elders to the Iles Salomon aboard the Mauritian government-chartered boat Bleu de Nîmes. Ostensibly, the boat set off on a mission to explore the Blenheim Reef.

The cross in the photos below was likely placed during that visit, both as a mark of respect to the people buried in the old plantation cemetery and as a metaphorical planting of a flag. In 2019, the UN recognised the islands as rightfully part of Mauritius

Traditionally, the seeds from the fish poison tree were ground into a powder and used to stun fish in tidal pools without making the meat toxic to humans. Whoever found that out was a braver person than I.

Crabs of Île Boddam

Boddam is known for its coconut crabs. They live here in abundance, probably because they aren’t short of food. These things are tremendously strong. They can lift about 28 kg, and their grip is stronger than a lion’s. In other words, not to be messed with.

Scientists haven’t fully nailed down the colour difference.

Île Boddam Yacht Club

There isn’t really a yacht club here, of course – it consists of an eclectic collection of random stuff that has washed up on the shore. In other words, it is Boddam’s equivalent of a scrap yard. And that is where our mini-tour of Ile Boddam came to a close.