The Dangerous Archipelago

The Dangerous Archipelago

Kauehi The Tuamotus islands, also known as the ‘Dangerous Archipelago’, are so low-lying that they make the Maldives look like Manhattan. And in the days before GPS navigation, many ships drove their vessels straight into the unseen reefs with inevitable...
Ua Poa

Ua Poa

Hakahau Conditions inside Taiohae can be deceptive: Inside the harbour, we had blue sky, light winds, and a gentle swell rolling over the bay. Outside the protection of Taiohae, however, the conditions were the polar opposite: average winds of 24 knots, sea state a...
Chasing Waterfalls with Evil Moses

Chasing Waterfalls with Evil Moses

Baie Hooumi A few days before the JaJapami’s arrived, and the day after Krabat and A Capella had left for the Tuamotus, we headed out to Baie Hooumi – one of the three bays collectively known as Controller Bay, situated to the east of the island. Luckily,...
Nuku Hiva And The Decade of The Bus Pass

Nuku Hiva And The Decade of The Bus Pass

Rolling Along To Nuku Hiva After around 15 hours of relaxed sailing under headsail only, we sailed into the vast Baie de Taiohae on the south of Nuku Hiva. It was a night of calm seas, bright moon, and an amazingly clear sky peppered with stars. Either the atmosphere...
Hiva Oa

Hiva Oa

The Myths and Legends of Atuona Bay Following grim tales of a crowded anchorage and an intolerable swell, we were not looking forward to coming to Hiva Oa. And, as we rounded the corner leading into Atuona Bay, we expected to see hundreds of tightly-packed boats...
Pacific Crossing and Fatu Hiva

Pacific Crossing and Fatu Hiva

Fatu Hiva After an 18-day Pacific Crossing, and a couple of hours loitering until it was light enough to see properly, we arrived at the Bay of Virgins at Fatu Hiva to be greeted by stunning scenery and some familiar faces. And what a place to make landfall. Not only...