We spent the early afternoon of our last day in Salt Whistle Bay with our French friends, celebrating Philippe’s 40th birthday with rum punch and lunch on the beach. Even though it was his birthday, he’d slaved away at the cooker in the morning to produce food to brighten the day of any true Frenchman – and a pair of hungry Brits. He also prepared a five litre container of healthy fruit-filled rum punch. Every glass giving you five a day – and possibly five measures of rum. We had a great time.

Mid afternoon we bade au revoir to our French friends and walked up the hill to Mayreau village. The walk is not for the feint hearted, or anyone prone to feinting for that matter. In places it’s as steep as Beacon Hill in Hampshire, but instead of a grave at the top, there’s Robert Righteous and De Youths bar and restaurant.

As we walked past Robert’s (Bob’s) bar, we heard a a booming disembodied voice call out “Hello, how you doin’?” Neither Maria or I could see the man associated with the voice, but we had a brief chat anyway, and said to the voice that we’d call in on the way back from Saline Bay. Which we did.

When we walked into the bar, again we heard the voice but couldn’t see the man. The reason being he was lying down. Thinking.

Bob’s bar is ideally located to pull in breathless passers-by coming up the hill. Too weak to resist, they are lured in by the mans charm to drink cold beer or one of his lethal cocktails.

Bob started the bar from nothing 33 years ago. Since then he has expanded the building out, and now up to accommodate even more weary travellers, hungry people, and party animals who want to dance the night away to reggae music. The place is decorated in Reggae colours. And with items given to Bob from all over the world adoring the walls and ceilings, it’s a true feast for the eyeballs wherever you look. Maria and I were treated to the grand tour of the building: the kitchen, pot (as in pans and plates) washing room, Bob’s office, and the sun terrace. Then he showed us his cookery book from England that he is very fond of, because he likes to cook. By now it was 1615 and he said the place will be packed at 5pm – “Just you see.” So we had another beer and stayed to see. And at 5pm, almost on the chime, the crowds rolled in. I couldn’t believe it. What a place! We met Alrita, his wife, who turned up at just before 5pm to help deal with the crowd – and his daughter who also arrived to give a hand. Both exuding level-headed charm of their own.

An hour later we made our way back up a slight hill, and down a very big one, back to Salt Whistle Bay and to Lady Jane for a temperate night on board.

Next, we are off to Union Island because we need some cash as there are no ATMs or banks on Mayreau.


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